Tuesday 10 January 2012

Ferry Across the River


Across the River, Bangkok 10th January 1012

Noticed from the top floor, just beyond the campus is a ferry terminal although not obvious at first looking down on a plethora of watercraft. OK, so that's my next goal - find the ferry that crosses this river. easier said than done. No obvious signage, not in English anyway and no picture indications for average Joe tourist either. A little guess work involved here then - a market to negotiate, a side street and a few more market stalls that obscure the waterfront view, but its got to be around here. Very few people speak English in this part of town, and those that do, only a few words but eventually I'm pointed to a spot just along the front. Yep, there it is, so obscure it's no wonder I'm the only tourist around.

It's about 5p to cross the river on this little foot ferry that ply back and forth all day long (according to the notice board, which is in English!). It's a good time to get the camera out and snap various aspects of Bangkok river life before docking at the Black Canyon Coffee House. Through the turnstile and into another maze of alleyways - looks like a covered market of sorts that leads onto a single main street. Quite a wide street, but crammed on both sides with people, mostly kids just out of school waiting for their transport. I would describe the scene here as chaotic - everything and everyone confined to the narrow paths. Food carts, thousands of kids and traffic to match all vying for limited space. Adding to the chaos, the city hospital exits a little further down. A complex of modern high rise structures with a carefully manicured park, and a makeshift temple right at the centre. I'm limiting my exploration to the ground floor - time is limited as sunset approaches and I'm sure security will be running after me at some point. The park here is just a quiet escape from the mayhem outside, a time to calm down, sit down and relax.

An intersection ahead with a pedestrian overpass, how thoughtful! A good vantage point for some more camera work. Something wasn't quite right though. Traffic is being withheld, and I'm being pointed at by a policeman. Oh dear! Looks like I'm being told to move on - yep, good idea. Back towards the ferry, hopefully I can find it again. Progress is slow since the amount of people congregating seems to have doubled. "What's happening", I ask. The young girl replies "everyone is waiting for the king".Seconds later a motorcade sweeps past - to quick for any camera action!


Again, no signage to the ferry, but I am well placed to find it since I can recognise some of the alleyways. Another 5p and some further snap of river life, this time at sunset. Now that I have my orientation figured out, getting back to base will be easy, routing back through the campus. a food booth was still open - looks good to. To good to miss in fact so a bowl of pasta with herb tomato for 25p just had to be consumed. Coffee, Wifi and crash - that concludes day 2 in Bangkok.


Next....Preparing for Cambodia and the scariest ride ever!

A University Lunch



Lunch at the University, Bangkok 10th January 2012

More pounding of Bangkok streets today, not with any particular plan in mind but just explore and soak up the Bangkok way of life. Breakfast time, or rather lunch time now, oh well I needed the sleep. A bowl of fruit salad with natural yogurt precedes a cup of coffee for about 2.10 pounds then must make a start.
Quite familiar with the network of allyeways that makes up the Khao san area since I must traveled most of them yesterday, at least twice over. Following a few of the other backpackers I’m sure they’re going somewhere interesting – yes I can spot a wat (temple) in the distance. Not so hot today, quite pleasant with an overcast and a breeze, must be about 29-30ish. The backpackers were going to catch a bus, maybe a coach for a long interstate journey and that temple looked way too far for the effort required today.

The boulevard has an underpass this end, makes sense to use it and head in the direction of another temple complex I spotted yesterday. There is a tourist information office, actually, some smart buildings are prominent around here. It’s the river front, with a pier and of course boats – tourist boats for about 12 pounds. The trip will last an hour and takes in a circuit of tributaries, so I am informed. Oh yes, need to wait for a few more people to turn up or the boat is yours for 1,500 baht. Not something I wanted to do there and then, maybe next time. Just next door is a little coffee shop – coffee time it is then and a chance to read some tourist info.

I can here a school, that kind of class room din along with a music lesson of sorts. A rather rundown block opposite doesn’t look like any obvious school building, but that’s where it’s all coming from. Some rather smart, expensive cars are coming and going from an entrance near by. Investigation reveals a huge complex of buildings – a school, college and university all in. No security since I can wander around quite freely glancing through windows of class rooms and take a seat in the eating area. About a dozen kiosks selling Chinese food mainly although I notice some typical western style ads for burger and chips, all at student prices (About 80p for a meal). It’s a really nice spot to eat lunch since the place sits directly on the river front, with boats plying up and down with mostly tourists.

Sand bags line the river bank and the most vulnerable of the university buildings. Evidence of the recent flooding here and looks more expected. The main building is high, perhaps 7 floors, but the climb should be worth it. Short of taking a helicopter ride, this has to be the next best thing – a panoramic view of Bangkok city skyline looking right along the river from the top floor of the university building. A truly memorable experience – probably shouldn't be here though, oh well. 

Next...stumbling upon a local ferry service and chaos around the hospital. Also the King visits.

Monday 9 January 2012

Completely Lost


A few tentative steps that turns into a 6 hour marathon…9th January 2012

Taking stock of where I am – If I get back to that side of the boulevard and about three quarters of the way along, I should be able to find that bar, the one that lets people wander through to the lane at the rear. From there, I should find my way to the guest house easily enough. 

Continuing, after having crossed all 8 lanes without incident, I notice a glint in the clear blue sky. Further along and several gold encrusted spires rise prominently. It’s some kind of religious complex – church or monastery. Turns out that this is where the local monks reside. Very serene, surprisingly peaceful considering the proximity of the highway. Time to rest as the heat takes it’s toll on weary jet lagged travellers like me. At the entrance  a little stall sells trinkets and more importantly bottled water (25p), just what I needed.

A slight change of plan since I’m not all that tired. Head back, but go via Khao San Road. Any Google search with “Khao San” will reveal a wealth of information, but in brief, it’s the Bangkok backpackers hangout. A street brimming with life, excitement and exuberance. And it was, again food end to end and there are considerably more people here – packed out actually. It’s vibrant, colorful and atmospheric!

feeling quite tired, been pounding these streets for 5 hours now but somehow excitement, maybe adrenaline, keeps me going. Okay, so I know where the boulevard is and I need to be in this direction, so if I cut through to that lane then I should be back at the guesthouse pretty soon.

I have to admit I’m completely lost! Trying to take that short cut was a mistake as it just leads to more alleyways going in different directions. Back to the boulevard, but it’s dark and I can’t find that bar, the one that provided a way to the street I was staying on. As it turns out, I’m not that far away. Go back towards Khoa San, find the 999, cut through there, left to the end and straight over are the directions I’m given. Good, there’s the place, a polite nod to the reception boy, up the stairs, through the door – crash (that means sleep)

So that’s how an intentional couple of hours round the block turned into a marathon. The map I had was pretty useless – not detailed enough, should have brought my TomTom.

Next...getting ready for the Cambodian experience and the scariest ride of my life!

A Bangkok Virgin


A few tentative steps that turns into a 6 hour marathon…Bangkok 9th January 2012

Not particularly jet lagged but as to be expected sleeping patterns are somewhat awry. Bed at 4am and awake by 11am – actually it’s just like a normal weekend night out. Priority right now is food – the aroma of Chinese and Thai cuisine just puts any thoughts of KFC, MacDonald’s and all that western gunk we’ve grown up with to the furthest, darkest corner of ones mind. It’s warm; very warm indeed – about 31 deg c with a nice breeze. 3 steps to the right is a café, 3 steps to the left is another café and directly opposite is a food cart. Soi Rambuttri (Rambuttri Street) is crammed with cafes, carts and guesthouses and of course backpackers mostly from Europe, Australia and the USA. Brunch is a plate of Padthai and coffee (2 pounds) then a glance at the tourist map and a glance it was since this isn’t going to be any major expedition – a few steps around the block will do for a jet lagged (sort of), first timer in a crowded city that is Bangkok.

The place is a maze of side streets, alleyways and lanes all lined with either ( and mostly) food, a shop, massage places, bars, stalls – The Bangkok experience in part. The end the of the street, a dead end by the looks of things. Oh look, there’s sign, hand painted onto some iron paneling inviting lost trekkers to climb the fire escape, go through the bar and drop down to the street beyond – I didn’t stop for a drink though.

Crossing the eight lane boulevards are easy enough with well controlled traffic lighting systems that I haven’t seen anywhere else in the world. A 30 second countdown light located above the road and everyone can see when the lights are about to change. Their Boulevards, expressways and highways are a sight to behold with monuments every few yards along the central divisions and occasionally arching the complete highway. This is a nation where its people stand in pride with patriotism flagged on every street. Thai’s seem almost as patriotic as Americans! That’s the impression average Jo tourist is getting and I’m sure that’s the case.

Tune in soon and read about getting lost, some stunning architecture and the Khao San experience…concluding day 1 in Bangkok. Please check my facebook page for photo updates.